If the Obstacle Spacing Supports It
Linda Mecklenburg
Using different cue combinations allows me to influence the character of my dog’s jumping arc. When I use forward cues, my dog should lengthen his stride and jump in extension. He will typically jump with a flatter trajectory with a longer takeoff and landing distance resulting in fewer strides between jumps (referred to as “leaving out” a stride). When I use turning cues my dog should shorten his stride and jump with more collection. He will typically jump with a rounder trajectory with a shorter takeoff and landing distance resulting in more strides between jumps (referred to as “adding a stride”). This allows him to make a tighter turn. See Figure 1.
Assuming my dog has sound mechanical jumping skills, I expect him to leave out or add a stride when I use the appropriate cue combination, and execute it in a timely manner. However, he can only do this if the obstacle spacing supports it. For example, if I am running a long striding dog jumping 26”, it is unlikely he will be able to respond to turning cues with an added stride if there are only 12 feet between the jumps. The obstacle spacing does not support an added stride, no matter how well I cue it. See Figure 2.
Figure 1
A When I use forward cues my long striding dog should extend and “leave out a stride”.
B When I use turning cues my long striding dog should collect and “add a stride”.
C When I use forward cues my short striding dog should extend and “leave out a stride”.
D When I use turning cues my short striding dog should collect and “add a stride”.
Figure 2
A When I use forward cues my dog extends and “leaves out a stride” with this distance between the two jumps as in Figure 1A.
B However, when the jumps are closer together, when I use turning cues my dog collects but does not “add a stride” as in Figure 1B.
Jump-Jump-Tunnel
Over the years I have used my famous “Jump-Jump-Tunnel” drill to teach many skills to both handlers and dogs. When practicing cue combinations, I often use this drill to evaluate the effectiveness of my cues and my dog’s response. In order to help me objectively evaluate my dog’s performance, I purposely set the distance between the jumps so that the obstacle spacing supports an added stride if turning cues are used, and supports leaving out a stride if forward cues are used. This creates a distinctly different performance of the two jumps so that 1) I know if and when my cues were timely and appropriate, and 2) I can reward my dog for responding as expected and withhold reward if not. The difference in the performance not only helps me, it helps my dog understand what is desired and how he is expected to respond. Because there are multiple factors that influence the number of strides each dog will take between two jumps, it is impossible to designate one predetermined distance that can be used for this drill for all dogs. The distance must be customized for each individual in order to get maximum benefit.
Jump-Jump-Tunnel Spacing Determination
To determine the best obstacle spacing to use for Jump-jump-tunnel, set up two jumps in a straight-line sequence with a U-shaped tunnel. The distance between the jumps should start about at 15 feet apart, with about 25 feet to the tunnel. Mark your dog’s set up location, far enough back to allow for extension on the first jump.
STEP 1
- Put your dog on a stay and lead out to a location on the landing side of jump #2 to cue extension. Release your dog and cue him into the tunnel. Note the number of strides your dog takes between the jumps. Reward. See Figure 3A.
STEP 2
- Increase the distance between the two jumps by moving the second jump closer to the tunnel by about one foot. Set your dog up in the same starting location and repeat the drill. Note the number of strides your dog takes between the jumps. Reward. See Figure 3B.
STEP 3
- Repeat until your dog “adds a stride”, taking one more stride than he had been previously. If he had been taking one stride he will now take two, or if he had been taking two strides he will now take three.
STEP 4
- At the point where the dog adds a stride, the distance has become too great for him to do the same striding despite being fully extended. See Figure 3C.
STEP 5
- At this stage, move the jumps closer together again by moving the second jump back about two feet. See Figure 3D.
To watch a video that demonstrates these steps, click here: Video 1
Now the obstacle spacing should support one additional stride if turning cues are used or one less stride if forward cues are used. If the timing and delivery of the cue combination is correct, the dog should respond appropriately. By observing the number of strides the dog takes, it is possible to 1) determine the effectiveness of the cue combination (choice of cues, timing of delivery and so on) and 2) reward the dog for an appropriate response to help him understand the difference in his own behavior based on different cue combinations.
To watch a video that demonstrates the obstacle spacing that results, click here: Video 2
Figure 3
A The distance between the jumps should start about at 15 feet apart, with about 25 feet to the tunnel. Mark your dog’s set up location, far enough back to allow for extension on the first jump. Put your dog on a stay and lead out to a location on the landing side of jump #2 to cue extension. Release your dog and cue him into the tunnel. Note the number of strides your dog takes between the jumps. Reward.
B Increase the distance between the two jumps by moving the second jump closer to the tunnel by about one foot. Set your dog up in the same starting location and repeat the drill. Note the number of strides your dog takes between the jumps. Reward.
C Repeat until your dog “adds a stride”, taking one more stride than he had been previously. If he had been taking one stride he will now take two, or if he had been taking two strides he will now take three. At the point where the dog adds a stride, the distance has become too great for him to do the same striding despite being fully extended.
D At this stage, move the jumps closer together again by moving the second jump back about two feet. Now the obstacle spacing should support the expected changes in striding for that individual dog.
